MAIN STREET FISH MARKET,

Wouldn't it be nice if every restaurant came into being as naturally -- by popular demand -- as Main Street Fish Market? In 1994, the market part opened under present ownership. Word quickly got around that diners could rely on their fresh fish, rather than resorting to the jet-lagged supermarket creatures that make you feel as if you're in Iowa. Proprietor Dan Montmarquett offered chowder and fish & chips from the start, and the demand was such that a dining room was added about four years later. An addition last year more than doubled the number of tables, to almost 20, and they remain busy on weekend summer nights. We've occasionally eaten at Main Street and the place has been pretty reliable. Johnnie and a friend recently had steamed lobster ($12.95), which my counterpart -- who fumes over crustaceans rendered chewy -- pronounced "just right." During lunch a few weeks ago, a friend had a perfectly non-greasy fish sandwich ($4.95 for scrod, $5.95 for Point Judith flounder), and I was delighted by a grilled yellowfin tuna burger ($4.95) that was moist as well as tasty. In addition to the three usual chowders -- made with broth or milk or tomatoes -- what's billed as "creamy fish chowder" ($1.95/$3.35) contains swordfish, tuna, cod, lobster, and scallops. These ingredients were generous and my bowl also contained a couple of shrimp. As welcome was its briny tang, from clam juice, I'd guess.

Full review.